Season cinco of the Tacos of Texas podcast is here — and it’s spicier than ever. Host and taco journalist Mando Rayo is serving up stories that go beyond the tortilla: from whole-hog butchering to the eternal Tex-Mex vs. Mexican food debate, Michelin-starred chefs to kids whipping up their own salsa.
To celebrate, we asked Mando five questions about how tacos aren’t just tasty — they’re a passport into Texas history, culture, and the Mexican experience.
Your title is “taco journalist.” What does that title mean to you, and how did tacos become the lens through which you tell stories about culture and community?
For many years, food reviews and journalism didn’t represent the Mexican or Latino community with authenticity so "taco journalism" became a way to go deep into the stories, starting with tacos in a way that provides access points to have conversations around understanding people, their culture, communities, and issues. Sometimes it takes people from within the community to understand the nuances of food traditions as well as their lived experiences. Too often you have people helicopter into a community, spend 30 minutes and the story isn't reflective of that community and unfortunately, very surface level. So taco journalism goes deep and ultimately, strives to honor people and their stories, where they've been and where they're going.
Every taco has a story. Can you share one of the most surprising or memorable stories you’ve uncovered while reporting on tacos in Texas?
I'm really excited about the stories in the new season, El Cinco, including talking to Ojeda Middle School kids making their own salsas and actually selling it after school at the bus stop. It was so much fun to see how creative they are and how much they get out of the experience.
We talk to Esme Tejeda from El Dorado Cafe and discuss how cocineras are the backbone of many Mexican restaurants. We also go deep into tacos in times of uncertainty with the immigration raids happening across our communities and how that is impacting taquerías.
Some of the standouts from previous seasons include the intersection of Black Mexicans and food culture; the history of the cowboy, which started with the originals, Mexican vaqueros and being in Austin, we explore Taco Gentrification and how on East Cesar Chavez you can get a taco for $1.50 and on the same stretch of that road, you have taco plates that go for $18.
These are the kind of stories that go beyond the taco and into communities and, for me, that's what taco journalism is all about.
Tacos are often seen as everyday food, but your work shows how they connect to history, identity and tradition. How do you decide which taco stories are worth telling?
I think every story is worth telling. While there are many stories around tacos and food culture, the ones that really resonate within a community are the ones that make sense for me. It’s the little hole in the wall or small mom and pop shop that are keeping a small town alive because of the community they've built and how they use their establishments as vehicles for a community to thrive. Yes, there are stories of perseverance and coming up with great recipes but for me the ones that really stand out are the ones that showcase culture, the vibrancy of families and people in a community.
Food journalism has exploded in recent years, but your approach feels deeply rooted in people and place. What do you think other journalists or storytellers can learn from taco culture?
I’ve often said that you cannot separate food from the culture so my advice would be to dig into the culture, go deeper into the stories and not just pop in and out for the “story” but become embedded within that community to better understand that community. Of course go beyond the food and how the issues and community impact food culture as well.
If someone new to Austin asked you for a “must-try taco” that represents the city’s food story, which one (or three!) would you point them toward — and why?
Oh, there’s plenty of tacos in Austin and I do have my favorites.
Bean and cheese and bacon on a flour tortilla from Joe’s Bakery. This is one of the last Tex-Mex restaurants still standing. It’s a great community hub and gathering, but you gotta get there early because you gotta beat out the true locals to the best seats in the house.
For tacos al pastor that still hit that 90s taco truck vibe is Rosita‘s al Pastor on East Riverside. Of course you gotta go to the Austin Taco Mile on North Lamar and Rundberg, hit up Tacos El Charly as well. One my new favorites for al pastor is Paprika on North Lamar.
For a new school taquerías, I'd go with the migas taco at Veracruz All Natural, the Mexico Street tacos at Cuantos Tacos and barbacoa at La Santa Barbacha.
Those are all pretty great and they’ll get you started, but don’t forget we have an awesome Austin Taco Map.